Today I have a very informative post for all you furniture lovers out there. Here it is in the intake department — my garage. Half the knobs were missing, the drawers need some fixing but it was the perfect shape I was looking for. The top was quite beat up and although the piece is solid wood, most of the top thin layer was bubbled up and separated from the top of the dresser. The veneer definitely needed to come off, the rest of the dresser was fine — even that piece missing on the top left drawer was OK by me because of what I have planned for this piece.
That very wide sapwood Luan wood furniture vintage non-typical, though that may be why they were used for pallets…. This helped a ton!! The wood of the porch also splintered shortly after installing before we sealed it, which the contractor fixed with wood glue. Bobbie capobianco August 13, at am - Reply. You have to trace pretty far up the hierarchal tree to find any sort of botanical commonality between any of these woods. Eric February 19, at pm - Reply. They vary in color, pattern and density.
Erotic rear stories. Un-jumbling the Mahogany mess
Cherry: The heartwood of cherry varies from rich red to reddish brown and will darken with age and on exposure to light. You will notice neutral elements accentuated by bold colors and geometric patterns. Sectional Sofa. Maple: Hard or "sugar," maple is elastic and very strong. California King: All California King beds can be found in this category, although most beds are also available in different sizes. Knotty pine is used extensively for paneling and plywood, cabinets and doors. Birch: It is heavy, similar to maple, the grain is fine and close and the texture is even. Casual Sectional Sofa. Compare your selections: Check the 'Select for Comparison' box to Luan wood furniture vintage items you wish to compare, then click the 'Compare your Selections' button. Please note that only like items can be compared. Casual: Warm, comfortable and inviting.
Common furniture woods have their own distinctive marks, just like each person has his or her own unique fingerprints.
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- Not all rosewood furniture is equal.
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Little did I know that these discrepancies stemmed from the woodworking equivalent of comparing apples to oranges. After all, there are currently over a half dozen types of mahogany listed on The Wood Database. Ultimately, the ambiguous term mahogany remains somewhat subjective. But regardless of where anyone happens to draw the line on what is and is not true mahogany, certain facts and scientific classifications of the trees remain constant, and a general consensus can at least be made on the objective facts surrounding these woods.
Why bother trying to sort things out? A lot, it turns out. Beyond simply being worth more in terms of dollars per board-foot, there are practical implications to using true mahogany. Mahogany is no different. From the top-notch mahogany of yesterday, one would expect to encounter the following characteristics of the wood:.
Cuban Mahogany Swietenia mahogani This is the original mahogany. In , Cuba banned all exporting of the wood due to over-harvesting and high demand; it has also been in scarce supply from other sources in the Caribbean as well.
All Swietenia species will have marginal parenchyma when viewed on the endgrain see 10x endgrain scan. While other lookalikes such as African Mahogany Khaya spp. Presence of marginal parenchyma strongly suggests a Swietenia species, though in rare circumstances, Khaya species can also display these cells as well.
In finished pieces: Another trick to tell Swietenia species from Khaya species, especially if you do not have access to the endgrain, is to look for ripple marks on a flatsawn surface of the wood. Basically, on many pieces of Swietenia-genus mahogany, the rays small reddish brown slits will collectively be arranged in neat little rows called storied rays , which appear as minute little ripple marks that are seen clearest on flatsawn portions see accompanying scan—you will more than likely have to view the full-size image to make out these small details.
These ripple marks are sometimes but not always seen in Swietenia species as well as Sapele —see further down this article , but almost never in the African Khaya species. An absence of ripple marks is ambiguous could be either genera , while the presence of ripple marks strongly points to a Swietenia species. Some can be darker red and with dark streaks, others can be much paler and lighter in weight.
Just viewing the facegrain of a wood sample and using your gut instinct to differentiate the two is unreliable. This tree is much smaller than the other two species listed above, and as a result, it usually yields lumber of poorer quality due to the inherent problems of smaller trees that is, knots and irregular grain is usually present, as well as much smaller available lumber.
But from a practical standpoint, wood from all Swietenia species should be evaluated objectively irrespective of the actual species. Depending on who you talk to, African Mahogany in the Khaya genus may or not be considered the real deal. African Mahogany Khaya spp. African Mahogany is comprised of a handful of species in the Khaya genus, such as K. And the family likeness is apparent in the wood as well. Both types also come from very large trees, so quality lumber in very large sizes and widths is common.
Identification: As mentioned previously, the wood of African Mahogany features an endgrain that is, for the most part, absent of any discernible annual or seasonal growth rings. Though the color of the wood can gradually change color through different seasons, Khaya species usually rare exceptions do exist lack the marginal parenchyma that are so common in Swietenia species see the endgrain scan of African Mahogany to contrast the relatively bland endgrain with the clearly delineated growth boundaries of the Honduran Mahogany endgrain sample shown further up.
Interlocked grain: In addition to the lack of ripple marks explained above under Swietenia species , Khaya species also tend to have a more interlocked grain, and will exhibit more pronounced ribbon-stripe patterns, especially when quartersawn.
However, as with nearly all characteristics differentiating the two genera, there are outlyers and exceptions to the rule. But taken collectively, when considering the marginal parenchyma, ripple marks, and interlocked grain, an increasingly confident identification may be made of an unknown or questionable sample.
Utile Entandrophragma utile. It lacks the exceptional dimensional stability of genuine mahogany, though it is by no means an unstable wood. Sapele Entandrophragma cylindricum. Identifying Sapele and Utile: These two species are both in the Entandrophragma genus and are very closely related. They may be separated from Swietenia and Khaya mahogany on the basis of their endgrain. Both Sapele and Utile have banded parenchyma visible as horizontal lines in the accompanying scan that occur consistently throughout the wood—not just at the annual growth boundaries.
Additionally, the two woods tend to be heavier and darker than Honduran or African mahoganies, and both have a pleasing cedar-like scent when being worked. Sapele can usually be separated from Utile on the flatsawn surface by checking for storied rays. Sapele will have ripple marks formed by the storied rays evident on the flatsawn surface, while Utile lacks this feature.
Similar to mahogany: Bosse is closer in color and grain to genuine mahogany than the two previous species, and its the weight, stability, and mechanical characteristics are also comparable too. The inconsistent availability and figured grain have primarily limited this wood to decorative wood veneer applications. Spanish Cedar Cedrela odorata. Similar to mahogany: Grain can be somewhat similar to genuine mahogany, though color is much paler.
Good stability and workability. Different from mahogany: Considerably lighter in both color and weight. Much softer. Very aromatic. Not a practical mahogany replacement in most instances. Australian Red Cedar Toona ciliata. It was once placed in the Cedrela genus alongside Spanish Cedar Cedrela odorata , and the two are very similar in most respects. The color can be a bit more reddish than Spanish Cedar, but still not quite the same shade as true mahoganies.
Different from mahogany: Still lighter in both color and weight, and softer. May be a practical mahogany replacement in some instances. Andiroba Carapa guianensis. Different from mahogany: Slightly more difficult to work, and not quite as stable, but still an underrated and obscure species. Avodire Turraeanthus africanus. Similar to mahogany: Sometimes called White Mahogany, Avodire fits the description well. It has similar grain, weight, and mechanical properties—it looks like a blonde version of African Mahogany in the Khaya genus.
Also, irregular or interlocked grain present can make working and machining troublesome at times. African Walnut Lovoa trichilioides. Similar to mahogany: Despite its common name, African Walnut is not closely related to the true walnuts in the Juglans genus. The grain and density can closely mimic genuine mahogany on some pieces, and its mechanical properties and stability are comparable to mahogany as well.
Different from mahogany: Color is much more variegated and streaked, and is generally darker and redder than most mahogany. Also, the interlocked grain can make working this lumber less pleasant than Swietenia species. Chinaberry Melia azedarach. You have to trace pretty far up the hierarchal tree to find any sort of botanical commonality between any of these woods. Philippine Mahogany Shorea spp. Sometimes called Lauan, this wood is frequently made into plywood. Also, the rot resistance of most Shorea species is much poorer than most types of mahogany.
This wood is thankfully being called by more honest terms as of late—it goes by the common name Meranti. Santos Mahogany Myroxylon balsamum. Mountain Mahogany Cercocarpus spp. It is actually one of the densest and hardest woods in the United States—the dried wood is heavy enough to sink in water. But the ambitious naming is much more forgivable as this wood is not commercially harvested, and was not done with the motive of increasing sales.
Swamp Mahogany Eucalyptus robusta. Even though Australia is considered its own continent, in the world of trees it could almost be considered its own world. In the case of Swamp Mahogany, the wood is slightly more dense and difficult to work, and the dimensional stability is much worse.
I have amassed over wood species on a single poster, arranged into eight major geographic regions, with each wood sorted and ranked according to its Janka hardness. Each wood has been meticulously documented and photographed, listed with its Janka hardness value in lbf and geographic and global hardness rankings. Consider this: the venerable Red Oak Quercus rubra sits at only 33 in North America and worldwide for hardness! Aspiring wood nerds be advised: your syllabus may be calling for Worldwide Woods as part of your next assignment!
Picked up these chairs. Sanding now. Kinda curious on why the black grain. Supposedly Mahogany wood. Looks like black cherry, wild cherry, rum cherry.
From my experience, cherry seems to show the burning easily from too slow machine feed. I just had an old piano, Hardman Peck restored and the 3 layers of paint removed.
I was told the wood is mahogany. I am thinking I will use a clear stain and poly on the wood. Can you identify this wood? Am I ok using what I suggested or can you recommend something else. The current owners love the variation, especially the light pieces with the striations I assume quarter sawn. Anyone know what it is?
Does this make sense to anyone? I have classical guitar that master luthier claims is made of mahogany for backplate and sides. However, to me it looks more like zebrawood.
Back Type:. Casual Sectional Sofa. Exposed Wood: An uncovered or visible wood leg. Select for comparison. Pine: Soft wood that is white or pale yellow.
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It is not as red as rosewood and stained in the brownish tones looking like teak, walnut or pecan. Used for centuries by furniture makers on all continents and prevails in cooler drier climates.
On Now. Please wait Sign in or Create an account Guest. My Cart. Your cart is currently empty. Sign In Forgot your password? Solid Rosewood and Elmwood Not all rosewood furniture is equal. Add To Cart Compare. Chinese Scroll Table Solid Elmwood. Chinese canopy bed, lattice carved solid elm wood. Solid Elm. Japanese Style Elmwood Tansu Chest. Choose Options Compare.
Asian Rosewood Step Curio Cabinet. Carved Mahogany Half Moon Table. Carved Oriental Shoe Cabinet. Chinese Carved Lattice Wood Table. Narrow Your Search Bed Size:. Close This. Queen: All queen beds can be found in this category, although most beds are also available in different sizes.
Twin: All twin beds can be found in this category, although most beds are also available in different sizes. King: All king beds can be found in this category, although most beds are also available in different sizes. California King: All California King beds can be found in this category, although most beds are also available in different sizes.
Bed Type:. Headboard Only: Headboard only beds are just a headboard without a footboard, rails or frame. Headboard Only beds occasionally include a frame or rails to form a complete bed however these items are usually sold seperately.
However, occasionally a bed frame may have to be purchased seperately. Headboard and Footboard beds come in many styles and forms. Sleigh Bed: Sleigh Beds include a headboard and footboard which roll outward at the top creating a similar look to that of a traditional sleigh. Poster Bed: Poster Beds have a headboard and footboard with posts on the four corners. Posts vary in shape and size and some can be used to support a canopy or curtains.
Platform Bed: Platform Beds are beds whose base consists of a raised, flat, hard, horizontal surface and clean lines meant to support just a mattress. Platform beds provide firm cushioning and with the support of slats or solid paneling, they eliminate the need for a box spring or a mattress foundation. They give adequate support for a mattress by itself.
Bookcase Bed: Bookcase Beds can include headboards and footboards or are often sold as headboards only. The headboard has bookshelf like storage with either shelves doors or both. Canopy Bed: Similar to poster beds canopy beds have a headboard and footboard with posts on the four corners which support a canopy or curtains. Upholstered Bed: Upholstered beds can include a headboard and footboard or just a headboard. The headboard and occasionally the footboard as well are covered with leather or fabric.
Daybed: Often thought of as a couch that can be converted into a bed, daybeds come in many forms and styles including fully upholstered or covered in fabric and metal framed with a mattress or cushions. Bunk Bed: Bunk Beds are a bed with another bed build or attached above the other. Bunk Beds are ideal for youth bedrooms or guest rooms. Loft: A loft bed denotes a bunk bed that has only the top bunk, creating an open space underneath that can be occupied by a chest, drawers, or even a work area.
This makes loft beds an efficient use of small spaces by utlizing the entire vertical area that would otherwise be left unused. Captain's Bed: A bed consisting of a shallow box with drawers in the side and a mattress on top. Material Type:. Birch: It is heavy, similar to maple, the grain is fine and close and the texture is even.
It is adaptable to fine finishes, easy to work with and can be stained and finished to resemble many expensive and imported woods. Cherry: The heartwood of cherry varies from rich red to reddish brown and will darken with age and on exposure to light. In contrast, the sapwood is creamy white. The wood has a fine uniform, straight grain, satiny, smooth texture, and may naturally contain brown pith flecks. Mahogany: Comes in many different varieties. Strong and tough and uniform in structure with close moderately open grain.
Possesses excellent physical and woodworking qualities. It ranges from a light pink to yellow, but on exposure to light and air, quickly turns to a reddish brown or sherry color.
Maple: Hard or "sugar," maple is elastic and very strong. It is one of the hardest of the common woods. The grain is straight with occasional wavy, curly, bird's eye patterns that are much prized in veneers. The natural color is white to amber. Maple is sometimes finished to simulate cherry wood. Oak or Ash: Oak is very tough, strong, and hard and can live up to the every day abuse furniture takes and it has a pronounced grain.
White ash is a ring-porous, hardwood of great strength. It is used for furniture frames and hidden parts. Brown ash has strong grain character and is used for veneers.
Pine: Soft wood that is white or pale yellow. Knotty pine is used extensively for paneling and plywood, cabinets and doors. Dries easily and does not shrink or swell much with changes in humidity. One of the least expensive woods for furniture production. Walnut: Because of its rich brown color, hardness and grain Walnut is a prized furniture and carving wood. Walnut burls are commonly used to created turned pieces along with veneers or thin Walnut slices. Finish Darkness:. Design Style:. Traditional: Calm, orderly, and conventional.
Traditional style is functional and uncomplicated furniture pieces. However, there are many traditional pieces that adhere to the non-trendy design principle, while still being appropriate for a formal space.
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Common furniture woods have their own distinctive marks, just like each person has his or her own unique fingerprints. Below are some details or characteristics that can help you easily identify the numerous types of furniture woods available.
Ash white ash : Ash is a tough hardwood known primarily for its excellent bending abilities; it's used for bentwoods and for bent furniture parts requiring maximum strength.
Ash veneers are also common. Ash varies in color from creamy white or gray with a light brown cast to a dark reddish brown. The price is moderate. Basswood: Basswood is a common hardwood, often used in combination with rare woods such as walnut and mahogany.
Its color varies from creamy white to creamy brown or reddish, with broad rays and sometimes slightly darker streaks. The grain is straight and even. Basswood is close-grained, with very small pores. It is inexpensive. Beech: Beech is another hardwood that bends easily, but it isn't as attractive as ash.
Beech is often used with more expensive woods, primarily in inconspicuous places -- chair and table legs, drawer bottoms, sides and backs of cabinets. Beech takes a stain well, and is often stained to look like mahogany, maple, or cherry. Beech is both hard and heavy,and is difficult to work with hand tools. Birch yellow birch : Birch, a common hardwood, is used in all aspects of furniture construction. The wood is light yellowish brown, very similar in color and in grain to maple.
The grain is quite pleasing. Birch is close-grained. It is moderately expensive. Butternut: This hardwood, often called white walnut, is similar in many ways to walnut. The wood is light brown, with occasional dark or reddish streaks. The grain is pronounced and leafy. Butternut is coarse-textured, with visibly open pores; it is usually filled. Butternut stains well, and is often stained to look like dark walnut. The wood is light, and is easy to work with hand tools.
Cedar Eastern red cedar : Cedar, a softwood, is used primarily in chests and closets; it has a distinctive scent, and is effective in repelling insects. The wood is a light red, with light streaks and knots; the grain is quite pleasing. Cedar is close-grained. It should not be bleached or stained. Cedar storage chests should be left unfinished on the inside, and treated with a clear finish on the outside.
Cedar is moderately expensive. Cherry black cherry : Cherry, one of the most valued of hardwoods, is used in fine furniture and cabinets. Its color varies from light brown to dark reddish brown, and it has a very attractive and distinctive grain, often with a definite mottle. Cherry is close-grained, and does not require a filler. A light stain is sometimes used to accentuate the color. Cherry is difficult to work with hand tools, and it is expensive.
Elm rock elm, American elm : This hardwood has excellent bending qualities; it's used in all types of furniture, and especially for bentwoods. Elm is light brown to dark brown, often with some red streaks Elm has a distinct grain; rock elm has contrasting light and dark-areas.
Because Dutch elm disease has destroyed so many trees, elm has become a rare wood, and can be both hard to find and expensive. Gum sweetgum, red gum : This hardwood is often used in veneers or in combination with rare woods; it's also used in some moderately priced furniture. Gum is an even brown, with a reddish cast; it sometimes has darker streaks.
Its price is moderate to low. Hickory shagbark hickory : This hardwood is noted for its strength, hardness, and toughness; it is used in rockers, Windsor chairs, lawn furniture, and some veneers. The wood is brown to reddish brown, with a straight, indistinct grain; it is open-grained. Hickory is very hard and heavy, and is difficult to work with hand tools. Its price is moderate. Lauan red lauan, white lauan : This hardwood, a mahogany look-alike, is used in less expensive grades of furniture; it is often sold as Philippine mahogany.
The wood varies in color from tan to brown to dark red, with a ribbonlike grain pattern similar to that of true mahogany. Red lauan is more expensive than white. Mahogany New World mahogany, African mahogany : This hardwood is a traditional favorite for fine furniture, one of the most treasured furniture woods in the world. It's also used extensively in veneers. Mahogany varies in color from medium brown to deep red-brown and dark red; the grain is very distinctive and attractive.
It is very expensive. Maple sugar maple : Maple is a strong, dense, attractive hardwood, used in furniture and for butcher blocks. Its color is light brown, with a reddish cast; the grain is usually straight, but also occurs in bird's-eye, curly, or wavy patterns. Maple is difficult to work with hand tools, and is usually expensive.
Oak red oak, white oak : This abundant hardwood has always been valued for its strength and its attractive grain; It is used extensively for solid furniture and, in modern furniture, for veneers.
White oak is a rich grayish brown color; red oak is similar, but with a pronounced reddish cast. Both types of oak are distinctively grained, with prominent rays or streaks. The wood is open-grained. It is moderately expensive; red oak is usually less expensive than white. Pecan: This southern hardwood is quite strong, and is used extensively in dining and office furniture; pecan veneers are also common. The wood varies from pale brown to reddish brown, with some dark streaks; the grain is quite pronounced.
The wood is difficult to work with hand tools; the price is moderate. Pine white pine : This softwood was used extensively for Colonial furniture, and is one of the basic woods of modern furniture; it's used in almost all types of furniture, and is the primary wood used for unfinished furniture.
The wood varies from cream to yellow-brown, with clearly marked growth rings; it is close-grained. Poplar yellow poplar : Poplar is a moderately soft hardwood, used in inexpensive furniture and in combination with more expensive woods. The wood is brownish yellow, with a distinctive green tinge; the grain is subdued. Poplar is close-grained wood. It stains very well.
Poplar is relatively light, and is easy to work with hand tools. Redwood : This distinctive softwood is used primarily for outdoor furniture; it is resistant to decay and insects, and is rarely finished. The wood is a deep reddish brown, with well-marked growth rings. It is moderately hard, and is easy to work with hand tools; its price varies regionally. Rosewood Brazilian, Indian, or Ceylonese rosewood : This hardwood, like mahogany, is one of the finest and most valued furniture woods; it's also used for veneers.
Rosewood varies in color from dark brown to dark purple, with rich, strongly marked black streaks. Rosewood is difficult to work with hand tools, and is very expensive.
Satinwood East Indian satinwood : Satinwood has always been prized for fine hardwood veneers and also for use in decorative inlays and marquetry. Its color varies from bright golden yellow to a darker yellowish brown, with a very distinctive and attractive mottled or ribbon-striped pattern. Sycamore: This hardwood is used extensively in inexpensive furniture and in veneers; it is very resistant to splitting, and is also a favorite wood for butcher blocks. The wood varies from pinkish to reddish brown in color, with prominent, closely spaced rays; the grain pattern is distinct.
It is moderately easy to work with hand tools, and moderately priced. Teak: Teak is one of the choice furniture hardwoods, and has traditionally been used for both solid pieces and veneers. Teak varies from rich golden-yellow to dark brown, with dark and light streaks. Walnut black walnut, European walnut : Walnut has traditionally been used for fine furniture, and is still in demand today; it is commonly used in veneers. Walnut is chocolate brown, sometimes with dark or purplish streaks; its grain is very striking and attractive.
Some of the other woods used for furniture are alder, apple, aspen, chestnut, cottonwood, cypress, fir, hackberry, hemlock, holly, koa, laurel, locust, magnolia, pear-wood, spruce, tupelo, and willow. Treat all wood according to its apparent traits. A piece of furniture holds many clues that can help you assess what quality of wood was used in its creation.
The key is just knowing how to assess the wood and what clues to look for. How to Fix Drywall Holes. Which Countertop is Easiest to Maintain? How can you decorate furniture with upholstery nails and tacks? A Guide to Furniture Woods. Common Furniture Woods. Prev Next. Hardwood Manufacturers Beech. Hardwood Manufacturers Basswood.