Below is listing of the various Engine ID Prefixes and other associated information. Jump to. Sections of this page. Accessibility help. Email or Phone Password Forgotten account?
Brakes as mentioned above require looking at frequently even if only to dust them out and adjust them, however more importantly, remove the front brake moors and push back the calliper pistons every now and Neutrogena facial brush, just to be sure that mkdget is free and mootors. If you continue to use this site we will assume that you are happy with it. The first version, announced at the end of June was essentially a slightly more expensive badge-engineered version of the MkII Austin-Healey Sprite deluxe version. Likewise, the lower front panel is vulnerable to corrosion plus the lower parts of the front wings. Vehicle Identification. DoughJoes Joe Gowen. For the season they ran the larger Formula Junior Mg midget how to identify motors at cc, with a cc engine using a block derived from the Mini-Cooper 'S' available for events where the coupes ran as prototypes. It's a triumph engine and transmission Whole different cat. This article is about the MG Midget that was built between and
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If your Trial bi fire arabian entails a lot of crawling motord traffic, you can rob the alternator from a late-model Mini to help out. The round rear-wheel arches were now square again, to increase the body strength. You also got plusher seats and a revised facia and a standard heater. I'm not too worried about originality, it looks far more original than my current frankenfrog Magazine Subscription. Popular Makes. Some new parts are needed and Moss is my usual source for the parts. Here is the Mg midget how to identify motors, this is what was installed in the car. Digg this article. Feeling quite excited now about getting it sorted. If it's not too bad underneath, I think you could be onto a good thing if you can get it for the right money. A quick release fuel filler was placed beneath the rear windshield to the right. Poke around the rear motore hangers, as rust can be hidden by underseal below and glued-down carpets above. A total of 26, were made. ADO34 was the name of a project active between and that Mg midget how to identify motors to possibly develop a front-wheel drive Mini-based roadster as a possible new MG Midget or Austin-Healey Sprite.
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- The first version, announced at the end of June ,  was essentially a slightly more expensive badge-engineered version of the MkII Austin-Healey Sprite deluxe version.
Before ordering parts, please use the space provided below to copy the applicable numbers from your car. Use of these numbers is the best way to ensure that you order and receive the correct parts. Wherever possible, we have listed part applications by car number c. In some cases, we had to use the engine numbers e or body numbers b. Commission numbers, as used from , are of little significance and are not used for reference purposes.
Where we use years, they are model years, not build dates. For the sake of simplicity, we have deleted all alpha-numeric prefixes from change points found in our application columns. For more information on these numbers and years, see the production data in the chart below. The Car Number for cars from on is stamped on a plate secured to the left hand door post, and to a plate on top of the fascia. The Body Number for early chrome-bumpered cars is stamped on a plate on the left front valance behind the radiator diaphragm as illustrated, or in some cases, in front of the radiator diaphragm.
Please tell us how we could improve your experience. Vehicle Identification. The Engine Number is stamped on a plate secured to the right hand side of the cylinder block.
The Commission Number is stamped on a plate secured to the bonnet lock platform. Sign Up for E-News. Sign Up for Our Newsletter:.
The Times Many consider the round-arch Midgets with chrome bumpers produced for model years to be the most desirable. Door gaps should be good, fairly uniform. Crucially, this model now boasted front disc brakes. The first version, announced at the end of June ,  was essentially a slightly more expensive badge-engineered version of the MkII Austin-Healey Sprite deluxe version. I would think that many Spridgets would not have their original starters by now.
Mg midget how to identify motors. We Reckon...
On a more mundane practical level, boot space is limited, but there is additional stowage space behind the seats. The Midget is a very simple classic to own and run, but you should be under no illusion that it is as easy as a modern car. It is not totally watertight either, and you must be prepared to invest a little more time in the car by, for example, drying out damp carpets promptly before they rot out the floorpan. On the bright side, all the help, advice and spare parts you need are out there.
Bigger cc engine taken from the Morris Minor in October. This slashes the mph sprint to 13 seconds with a lot more torque and makes it the best Midget yet and 13, were made as a result. Rear bumper is split either side of a square number plate, British Leyland badges adorn the front wings and the rear silencer now runs across the car. Round rear wheelarches are introduced, which many enthusiasts rate as the best looking Midget of them all, although they soon revert back to the stronger square-cut types better rear-end crash resistance for the impending introduction of the Triumph powered model in Marina-sourced gearbox means synchro on first!
Head restraints, radio console and inertia reel seatbelts made standard, plus the axle ratio is raised to a more relaxing 3. Two-speed wipers, hazard warning lights and — more importantly — dual circuit brakes follow all in New look instruments now shared with the Triumph Spitfire, but the oil pressure gauge is replaced with a simple warning light. The last Midget is produced that November, after a production run of almost 20 years and , units.
Even at 50, the MG Midget has the cheeky charm of a pugnacious youngster always looking fun and looking for fun. Share with Facebook. Tweet this article. Share bookmark with Delicious. Digg this article.
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Buyer Beware The Midget packs a whole lot of box sections into its small frame, and rust is always worse than it appears. The Midget had no chassis, and the monocoque structure depends on the sills and transmission tunnel linking front and rear bulkheads.
Sill rot starts at the front look behind the side trims in the front footwells , and is usually quite advanced by the time the bottom of the A-posts are bubbling. Cover sills are definitely bad news, indicating total sill replacement is needed. Door gaps should be good, fairly uniform. If anything is catching, you need to ascertain whether the hinge is worn, the A-post is rotten or the sills have been replaced without bracing shell.
Poke around the rear spring hangers, as rust can be hidden by underseal below and glued-down carpets above. Get underneath to check… Timing chain rattle on A-Series engines does not spell imminent failure, but will rob you of power. A knock from cold means the big end bearings are worn. This is most likely on the engines, whose bottom end is not the strongest.
Check these too for end float, revealed by a crankshaft pulley that moves when the clutch is depressed. Straight-cut first and reverse gears on pre cars will whine, but a rattle indicates an overhaul is due soon. Jumping out of second gear indicates that it is due NOW! Any Midget is lively and buckety, but if the front end feels floaty and wanders, budget on a full front suspension overhaul. Poor interior trim is merely a bargaining tool, as it is cheap and freely available.
Magazine Subscription. Simple and pure fun, Midget feels like a cut-price Seven. We Reckon Classic Motoring. User Comments This review has 0 comments - Be the first! Leave a comment Keep it polite and on topic. Your comments:. Notify me of follow-up comments? Remember My Details. Subscribe Today. Popular Makes. The 9 gear would be a little easier on the battery.
Here is the picture, this is what was installed in the car. Is this correct for MK3 from ? So no Moss, but e-bay and search for M35G parts? I think they had progressed to the M35J by '73, but they are interchangeable. I would think that many Spridgets would not have their original starters by now. I believe I can just see the date code in the photo.
It looks like week 3 of or GEU seems to be the Moss part number for , and cars for the actual motor. You have to use a spacer for the If you specify 9 teeth you should be OK.
It has been said, and justifiably, that the Sprite and Midget as produced by the MG Car Company from until , provided motoring enthusiasts with by far the most amount of enjoyment, for by far the least amount of money.
One of the most versatile sports cars ever, owners were within days of its announcement, competing successfully with them in all branches of motor sport, and have continued doing so ever since.
Equally at home whether being used for racing, rallying, hillclimbing, sprinting, trialling, or auto-testing, these diminutive machines were and are truly competitive, and in talented hands always capable of some giant slaying results. The MkI Midget, as announced in June and fitted with a However it did just what its creators intended, and offered sporting motoring for minimum cost.
It differed from the Sprite by having a traditional MG style of grille and extra trim, a black instead of white steering wheel, and other small detail differences, the uncomplicated but attractive car bringing under one litre motoring back to MG enthusiasts for the first time since In all other respects the car remained as before, but big changes were to be revealed with the announcement of the MkII model in This version incorporated a completely new and far more comfortable cockpit, with wind up windows and swivelling quarter-lights, better instrumentation, lockable doors and the option of wire wheels.
With the cc engine now producing 59bhp due to a new three branch manifold, larger inlet valves and improved porting, the Midget was becoming sophisticated. This model, the MkIII, also benefited from a superb new design of folding hood, and a larger fuel tank.
In the Austin Healey Sprite model became just an Austin Sprite, which the following year after just had been made was dropped altogether. By this time however the two models had become identical in all but badge. Come and a slightly more notable alteration was made, when rounded rear wheelarches were introduced, a design cue not seen since the original Mark I Frogeye Sprite. Also at this time Rostyle wheels, similar to those fitted to MGBs were fitted as standard with wires still being offered as an option, and all the interior switches were made to be of the rocker type in the aid of safety.
In late however the car underwent its final and most significant change, for to keep the model in line with the ever increasing safety and emission rules being introduced in the US, heavy energy absorbing bumpers were fitted along with a cc 65bhp engine from the Triumph Spitfire.
This Triumph engine was mated to a fully synchromesh gearbox taken from the Morris Marina range. Marginally more powerful, this final version could in standard form just reach mph, something none of the previous standard cars could achieve, although it took a while to get there. Its appearance due to the bumpers was considerably altered, the Midget also featuring a return to the square design of rear wheel arch. In wire wheels were dropped from the option list. The car then continued in this guise with just slight annual cosmetic revisions until when production finally ceased on December 7th.
Probably the initial and greatest appeal of all Sprites and Midgets is their affordability and very low running costs, but pretty quickly new owners are captivated by the cars pin sharp handling and throttle response. Indeed these cars can be transformed into seriously quick machines, there being no shortage of tuning shops able to perform wonders. The engines, even when tuned, remain relatively simple and strong, something which can be said of the car in general, although like all late fifties designs, they do suffer from corrosion.
This, in common with so many cars of the time, being by far the most expensive problem to overcome. Depending upon how bad the car has suffered, new shells are readily available and very good value, being a cost effective alternative to many hours of costly professional welding. Once the corrosion has been eradicated and thorough modern rust prevention has been carried out and maintained, the problem largely becomes history.
Enormous fun and an absolute joy, if creature comforts are not high on your list of requirements, this is the car for any red blooded enthusiast. The earlier MkI models with their quarter elliptic rear suspension are perhaps a tad sharper, but can catch the unwary out as there is less warning when things start getting near the edge. Some enthusiasts consider these the best handling of all the standard cars, even if the ride is a little firmer.
The later models by contrast are much softer and do lose out on the Midgets strongest virtue, its handling, this mostly due to the large heavy bumpers combined with an increase in ride height.
This of course can easily be overcome by lowering the suspension, and by what many owners have done, complete removal of those heavy bumpers. Insurance likewise is relatively inexpensive, and with parts costing nothing in comparison to those of modern cars, these diminutive machines continue to give levels of enjoyment out of all proportion to their costs.
When set up correctly they will start first time, warm up quickly and transport you anywhere enjoyably, returning at least 35mpg when driven in normal traffic.
They will, and do misbehave, with something often requiring attention at an inconvenient moment. Taurus, Speedwell and Abingdon Special Tuning all offered various levels of tuning from day one. The first from Jack Brabham in deployed a cc Coventry Climax engine, but was very expensive with few being made, then in C Conversions from Bedford produced the Atlantis Midget, using a Ford cc GT Kent engine which although less expensive, still sold in relatively small numbers.
Modifications of this calibre move the car into a completely different category and is a subject in its own right. However it cant be stressed to strongly that a properly put together Sprite or Midget with a few period tweaks and a well prepared, balanced engine, is a pure joy to drive. Smooth and responsive the car becomes far more than just another form of transport. Great stuff!
However, there are many publications that go into great detail on all the minute changes, so I will just touch on a few, more important ones. Staring at the front of the car we have quite a few things to look at. The bonnet is often an area that has had some attention at times.
Likewise, the lower front panel is vulnerable to corrosion plus the lower parts of the front wings. Look also to the front of the wheel arch, if it is out of shape or appears to be pushed out slightly, this could indicate accident damage. Moving back, the rear of the front wings is also a mud trap where it meets the top of the sill, this area will rot away and also the footwell panel and sill with it, in extreme cases, the inner sill and front floor can be effected too.
Pay particular attention here, as unprofessional repairs in the past have been common. The doors are often an area to aware of rusting; pay particular attention along the bottoms and the front lower corners. Because of the nature of these little cars, they are a convertible and as such have often been used in wet conditions; ingress of water through open top motoring or just leaks can often lead to constantly wet carpets and thus over time, rusting floors and sills.
Because the roof is NOT a supporting panel, the main strength of the shell is in the inner and outer sills and the gearbox tunnel. It is very rare that the gearbox tunnel will be found to have any corrosion due to engine and gearbox oil leaks over the years protecting it, the sills on the other hand are a key area of corrosion.
Badly fitted sills or a damaged car can quite often be noticed when opening and closing the doors. The gaps should be neat and equal and the door should open and close with ease and should certainly not nip. The next areas of concern are the rear spring mountings. The early cars with the quarter elliptic are more vulnerable to corrosion as all the stress of the mounting is taken up in one area at each side of the car.
Look for collapsed spring box mountings or an uneven ride height as an indication of trouble. The later cars with the semi elliptical springs are still a cause for concern but less so. Rear wings and inner arches are quite often rusted away, pay particular attention to the area behind the back of the rear wing where it is a double skin and comes up to meet the boot floor. Finally the boot floor itself. Areas of corrosion are common along the back of the boot floor where it meets the rear panel.
Check for poor repairs here also. It came in various sizes ranging from the early cars with cc and then cc to the later models with the larger cc unit. Look for low oil pressure particularly when the engine is fully warmed up, a worn engine will breath and you can smell burnt oil and fumes from under the bonnet as well as the exhaust.
One engine that perhaps should be mentioned to take particular attention to is the early cc version fitted to the Mk2 Midget and Mk3 Sprite. These engines shared the same crankshaft as the Austin A40 and Morris Minor and whilst seemingly OK in these models was not a strong unit in a Spridget.
A more substantial crankshaft was fitted to the later cc engines with engine number prefix 10CC and this shared the larger journal sizes of the Mini Cooper S range. The cc engine was and still is a tuners delight, it is one of those engines that can be bored and stroked to nearly cc and develop very healthy power. I will not go down the route of tuning here except to say, beware of tuned and tired engines. The later engine when in good fettle is a good unit and develops good power and torque, however it has a weakness.
Its crankshaft journals are small and therefore their life is not long. I have heard of modifications to the lubrication system that drastically improves matters, but this is not an everyday modification. These gearboxes are weak and spare parts are almost impossible to obtain now.
However, those with early cars, do have less powerful engines and tend not to suffer too much trouble. A lot stronger gearbox and one that can be rebuilt. Going back to the standard gearboxes, the problems to be aware of are noisy first and reverse gears. Another thing to be aware of is worn synchromesh and gearbox internals. The later gearbox fitted to the cc models are a lot stronger but carry a weight penalty, they certainly are not a cause for major concern.
I have grouped this together as I feel it is one area of the car that can be covered as a whole. The front suspension and steering is often the MOT testers favourite area on these cars and particular attention must be taken to inspect these items carefully.
Wear and corrosion cause problems here and this is usually down to poor and irregular maintenance. There are between three and four greasing points on each front suspension and steering unit, these need lubrication very regularly and NOT with grease but with thick oil or a waterproof grease.
Other problems to be aware of may be track rod ends and play in the rack ends, but neither of these are major areas of concern. The front springs give little trouble but the rears start to sag after time and may require re-setting or replacement. The rear axle usually gives little or no trouble but listen for a noisy differential.
Occasionally the rear hubs may leak oil into the rear brakes but this is usually due to lack of inspection and servicing and is easily sorted.
The brakes on these little cars are very reliable when in good condition. Bad maintenance and worn parts can lead one into thinking that the brakes need up rating. The fronts require inspection now and again and the rears require regular adjustment to keep them performing well. The trim on the outside of the car is an aesthetic thing only.
Sprites were fitted with no fancy strips on the bonnet or waistline, whereas the Midget was until when the trim vanished in stages of production. Later cars were fitted with a sill finisher and sill lettering.
Careful inspection may reveal corrosion around the fittings for these trims. The trim changed slightly almost from model to model, so if you are looking for an accurately detailed car, your research should be thorough.
Many cars over the years have been messed around with and items swapped from model to model. As with any car, servicing and routine maintenance is compulsory and certainly aids the reliability and enjoyment you will get from your trusty steed. The engine requires oil and filter to be renewed every miles or 12 months whichever occurs first , plus air filters, plugs, points and condenser should also be renewed at the same time. Brakes as mentioned above require looking at frequently even if only to dust them out and adjust them, however more importantly, remove the front brake pads and push back the calliper pistons every now and then, just to be sure that everything is free and working.
Looking after the bodywork is easy, regular washing under the car and cleaning out trapped mud and deposits will help prevent corrosion and touching up stone chips will do likewise. Remember cellulose paint and chrome are both porous so regular waxing will also help these areas.