Philips webcam raw-Astrophotography with the Philips SPCNC Webcam

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Let me know if you have this webcam, and have used it for astrophotography please below as a post! This webpage is Philips webcam raw a part of the beginning of a lot of improvment to come Just be extra careful in screwing in the adapter. Photo of Saturn taken on May 8, Sign in to your account. Likewise with Brightness and Contrast these Philips webcam raw normally left at their default values. Anyway, for the paupers, newbies and experimentalists among us we can try our hand with a cheap webcam. This page also provides details of sensor sizes which you may need to read to understand the type of CCD in your webcam. I Beaver vocalization just found one on ebay. Sign up for a free GitHub account to open an issue and contact its maintainers and the community.

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Recently viewed products. Hi Mark, Thank you for your reply, Philipd Philips webcam raw time Brentwood college cock by you in keeping us updated. Discover MyPhilips. About Philips. Get support for this product Go Withc hentai consumer care. Central part of a 'standard' frame with just Sharpness to zero. Julio LeandroPelliza Replied on September 29, The state-of-the-art camera software automatically detects your face and moves the lens to follow you as you move. Computer accessories. Cancel Compare products. Thanks Philips webcam raw several advanced features, like fast processor speed and dedicated signal processing, it takes only two seconds to start up the Philips camcorder. The VAT amount will be deducted from the price shown above.

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Over time I have tried to make this page a comprehensive resource for the SPCNC, so please check out the various links and resources lower down - it may save you some time!

For a webcam to be suitable for astrophotography it needs to be particularly sensitive to light. Generally if you are searching out a webcam for use with a telescope , try to find a CCD webcam , otherwise be sure that any CMOS webcam is sufficiently sensitive and has been tried by other astonomers.

A typical family living room is lit to 50Lux, the dark limit of civil twilight is 3. Total starlight shining through an overcast sky provides 10 to the power -4 lux. Specifications for video cameras such as camcorders and surveillance cameras often include a minimum illuminance level in lux at which the camera will record a satisfactory image.

A camera with good low-light capability will have a lower lux rating. Still cameras do not use such a specification, since longer exposure times can generally be used to make pictures at very low illuminance levels, as opposed to the case in video cameras where a maximum exposure time is generally set by the frame rate.

As can be seen, at 3. You will see what I mean if you try using the Toucam or Philips webcams with a dob mount - it requires persistance and a lot of patience. Generally cheap webcams do not offer high resolutions for movie capture, the norm for affordable webcams being x, or x Anything greater than this generally starts to get more expensive. There may also be other options for special features or capabilities specific to that model of webcam which may be useful to control the quality of astro photos.

Generally the moon, planets and similar bright celestial objects can be captured and enhanced using software such as Registax or K3CCDTools , which will align the many frames of movie footage exactly over each other, then stack them together, then sum all the frames into a single enhanced composite image which is far brighter, less noisy, sharper and clearer than any single frame would have been.

But to take single shots of dim night-time objects like stars, galaxies and nebulae requires the webcam to be capable of taking very long exposures , more like 5, 10, 30 seconds or even longer, sometimes 5 minutes, 30 minutes or an hour long! One of the prime reasons for me searching out this particular webcam was because after considerable research on the Steve Chambers SC Long Exposure mod , not only was the SPCNC webcam still fairly readily available, and used a good sensitive CCD sensor chip, it also became apparent that the Long Exposure modification could be made much more easily than for some other webcam models, which require some very fiddly soldering see Useful Resources section below for link to M.

Meijer's web site, for more info on how to actually make the Long Exposure mod. While point 2 can be dealt with using software to create a "dark frame map", which is then subtracted by post-processing the image, point 1 is absolutely crucial and means that Dobsonian mounted telescopes such as the Orion Skyquest range are simply incapable of taking long exposure photos , unless the Optical Tube is mounted on an Equatorial tripod, or the Dobsonian is modified to sit on an equatorially tracking platform, or the Altitude and Azimuth axis' are motorised.

To combat the heat problems described in point 2 above, it is possible to attach heatsinks to the imaging chip, and use fans to aid cooling. Additionally a special type of semiconductor called a Peltier chip is used in conjunction with a heatsink to act as a kind of "refrigerator" to cool the imaging chip down even more, often to temperatures well below freezing.

For example Peltier chips are used in portable coolboxes to keep food and beer cold. All these different things cooling, heatsinks, fans, peltier chips, high resolutions, and better quality imaging chips soon add to the expense of professionally manufactured astronomy cameras, and this is why some of them can cost hundreds or thousands of dollars!

Note that there is probably no point in making the Long Exposure mod to your webcam unless your scope has Equatorial tracking. Anyway, for the paupers, newbies and experimentalists among us we can try our hand with a cheap webcam.

It is possible to get reasonable pictures of the planets even with a Dobsonian mounted scope, using the Field of View Drift method , as I like to call it. You line up the planet in one corner of the webcam screen view, then let go, leaving the scope static, and let the planet drift diagonally across the field of view as the Earth rotates, roughly to the opposite corner.

With my Orion XT10 , and just the webcam in place at prime focus and no Barlow lens to increase magnification the drift takes betwen seconds. This means a webcam movie capture of 10 FPS will result in about to frames which can be aligned, stacked and enhanced. Golden Rule: Remember when capturing movie footage, that it is always better to under-expose , or reduce the gain of the webcam for a particular planet, i.

The front lens can be rotated to focus the camera. Unfortunately it also has a nasty bright white LED lamp to kindly indicate when the camera is functioning any kind of bright light is not good for dark-adapted eyesight! Cover it with some red tape. Note: I recommend you become familiar with the operation of the webcam and its software under normal conditions before you start dismantling it, because after removing the original lens you will not be able to focus the image unless you put it into your telescope.

Using the flat edge of a screwdriver gently prise the focuser up and out of the camera body this is made easier if the focuser is rotated roughly halfway between maximum and minimum focus. Try to ease the clips out evenly all round. Getting the clips to release is quite hard, so be careful not to break any of the three plastic lugs which clip the focuser into the camera body and hold it in place, so that you can continue to use the webcam for its normal function if you wish.

The shot below shows the focuser removed, but the lens still screwed in place. Just unscrew the lens anti-clockwise until the lens comes right out. The lens unit incorporates the lens and an infra-red filter, but we will no longer use this for astrophotography. Keep it, and the focuser, somewhere safe so that you can use the webcam normally again in future if you wish e. Once the lens is removed you can see the CCD chip.

Do not leave the chip uncovered for long - you don't want any dust particles getting onto the clear face of the chip as they may become visible on any photographs you take. The next thing to do is to replace the normal webcam lens with a 1. This will screw snugly into the webcam body, in place of the original lens, and the barrel is the correct diameter to fit into the eyepiece holder of your telescope. The adaptor should also be "baffled" inside to help reduce light reflections this is a kind of stepped feature within the adaptor nozzle.

When purchasing the adaptor be sure to get the correct type. The first one I ordered was almost right, but the screw thread was not long enough to locate into the thread within the camera body , I think it was from an old batch or was for an earlier model of the SPCNC. The supplier soon replaced my order with the correct part. Also be careful when inserting the adaptor into the webcam that you do not overtighten it or the nozzle might hit the CCD chip and damage the clear face of the chip.

The front end of the adaptor is also threaded to accept filters. So here is the webcam ready for use with the telescope. You can see the baffled anti-reflection feature within the adaptor. I would also suggest you also take a look at Robert Reeves SPCNC Webcam page showing some additional photos of this webcam, and describing in more detail how to dismantle the unit.

First, during the daytime, install the software that came with the webcam, and become familiar with its various functions, features and settings. Its best to do this before you replace the original webcam lens with the eyepiece adaptor nozzle. The software supplied is VLounge. While VLounge is ok for getting started with taking astrophotography footage, it is better to use software dedicated to the purpose. K3CCDTools is specifically written for this job, and is also programmed to control webcams that have been modified to take Long Exposures.

Another good free software is WxAstrocapture. You might also consider Nebulosity , which has some excellent documentation manual and tutorials where you will learn a lot about CCD cameras, and astrophotography image processing. First try experimenting with the settings, in particular the Exposure and Gain settings. Have a go in a darkened, dimly lit room, pointing the webcam at something and making sure it is focused. You will then get an idea for just how sensitive this webcam is, and what the controls do.

I would also advise you to download the free WcCtrl webcam control software which allows much easier access to the webcam controls than going through the K3CCDTools menu to the Driver software for the webcam. Copyright c www. A brief overview of Webcams and Astronomy Not all webcams are made equal. There are two main problems regarding long exposures:- The telescope must be able to track very accurately the apparent motion of the night sky as the Earth rotates, otherwise the image will become blurred and elongated.

While the CCD chip is turned on to gather as much light as it can during the exposure, the electric current passing through the chip heats it, and this can result in "glow" effects or "hot pixels". The Field of View Drift Method It is possible to get reasonable pictures of the planets even with a Dobsonian mounted scope, using the Field of View Drift method , as I like to call it. Here is the lens and focuser after removing both from the body. Tips for using the Webcam Make things easy to start with.

When you plan to try the webcam with the telescope, be organised about it. Here are some tips:- Try the webcam in the telescope in daytime first. Get to understand the webcam settings. Also note which way up and which angle you need to orient the webcam to give an upright image. The software probably allows you to flip the vertical or horizontal axis to get a mirror image. This is better for learning initially, but once you've got used to operating the webcam, you may find it more convenient to orient the webcam so that any movement of the target is along one axis only, and this will require watching the movement and twisting the webcam orientation to match effectively aligning the webcam's vertical axis parallel to earths polar alignment, so that the earths equatorial rotation appears as horizontal motion in the webcam.

Doing this can be helpful when photographing through a dobsonian mounted telescope, but also helps with other types of telescopes with proper EQ tracking the image is stationary , for example when trying to align the webcam to create a lunar mosaic so as to ensure correct coverage of the target object when multiple images are "stitched" together. It's a matter of personal preference and depends on what you're trying to achieve. Of course you can post-process with imaging software to rotate the picture to the correct position if required.

Ensuring that your Finder Scope is well-aligned with the main telescope is crucial to aid accurate alignment on objects without having to swap the webcam with an eyepiece, which would otherwise mean refocusing constantly. This is something best checked during daytime on a distant stationary object. Stars don't stay still! You will need plenty of time to get aquainted with using your laptop computer next to the telescope, so make sure the night has good weather and good long visibility time.

Forget about looking for pretty stars or admiring the view - your mission is to concentrate on understanding the webcam and its software, and how to set it up to work with your telescope.

This may take you several sessions to get used to everything, and poor weather may cut short your experiments, and resuming your trials may not be until next night or several days later!

Get a sturdy chair or table to sit the computer on so that it is close enough to work with, and conveniently at your side. Make sure you are aware of where any cables, plugs, adaptors are trailing so you won't trip up on them in the dark.

Keep your cables tidy. Use a bright easy to find object to begin with, e. The Moon. Since you are working with the Moon which is very bright, and large, you won't be worried about dark-adapting your eyes, therefore you can afford to have some gentle light available eg.

I can then aim this at the keyboard so it casts a gentle light so I can see which keys I'm hitting. Make sure the webcam is plugged in and operating correctly. Make a habit of always using the same USB socket to plug into. Same goes for any other USB plugs e. Using you software's Preview mode, see if you can get an image using the webcam.

Do not use any Barlows or Focal Reducers yet, just try the webcam on its own first. Barlows magnify which means things will move across the view faster, and Focal Reducers may shorten the focal length too far, preventing you from obtaining focus.

Does anyone have any suggestions as to how to get it to work, please? Portable audio. Show all reviews Show fewer reviews. Getting online with friends and family has never been easier. It has Philips state-of-the-art technology and its optics are so sensitive that it will even give you colorful, high definition images in darkness. The VAT amount will be deducted from the price shown above.

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Select add someone else on this PC. Enter a user name and hit next. Click on Finish. Sign out from the current Account and Log into the new account. Thanks for that. Due to another problem with Windows 10 and a printer, I decided to revert to Windows 7 and all my perpherals are back working properly!

Kind regards. Thank you for your reply, appreciate the time taken by you in keeping us updated. In future, If you face any issues with Windows, do get back to us. We will be happy to assist you. It was so clearly explained that even if I don't speak Spanish, I could understand without Google translate :.

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I have the same question Previous Next. User Replied on May 17, Hi Mark, I will be glad to help you with the issue you have with the Webcam. Thanks for marking this as the answer. How satisfied are you with this reply? Thanks for your feedback, it helps us improve the site. How satisfied are you with this response?

In reply to A. User's post on May 17, Hi Ruth Many thanks for your reply. Any further ideas, please? Kind regards Mark. User Replied on May 22, Hi Mark, There is no need to go to device manager to install the driver in a compatibility mode. Hope this helps. Get back to us if you need further assistance. User's post on May 22, Hi Many thanks for your suggestion. Share your video with friends and family or broadcast it out across the internet.

With the special Motion Detection feature you can record anything that happens in your home while you're out. Set the camera to motion detection mode when you leave the house and it will only start recording when movement is detected in the room. Zoom in and out to get the perfect framing for any image.

You control the zoom entirely via the onscreen interface while you're looking at the image so you can adjust it perfectly.

Create and send V-mails in seconds. VLounge is sophisticated software for capturing, managing and archiving snapshots and video clips with just a couple of mouse clicks. You can also use it with the webcam for home monitoring, motion detection and web casting. See all specifications See less specifications. Sorry, your subscription to our newsletter failed. Please try again later. Computer accessories. Hi-definition even in darkness This is simply the best webcam in the world.

Unfortunately this product is no longer available Find similar products. This product qualifies for VAT relief. Videos [trigger to render Video Gallery]. Images [trigger to render Image Gallery]. Make it a bundle and save Make it a bundle and get 1 item for free All your needs covered in one purchase. Bundle price.

Make it a bundle. Choose one of the following: Choose one of the following products:. Add accessories. Philips shop price Total: Add to cart. Digital Natural Motion to eliminate juddering effects Philips invented Digital Natural Motion to eliminate juddering effects that are visible with moving picture content.

Ultra sensitive sensor technology for working in darkness The ultra-sensitive high quality CCD sensor ensures natural looking images even in darkness. Face tracking automatically follows your face The state-of-the-art camera software automatically detects your face and moves the lens to follow you as you move.

Pixel Plus for detail, depth and clarity Pixel Plus is a digital picture processing technology that increases the number of lines and the number of pixels. Precision glass lens offers sharper image quality Sharp, crisp and clear. Add top-quality video and speech to calls The webcam has been designed to add video to your internet calls so you can see as well as hear your friends and family online. Webcasting at broadcast quality This camera is perfect for webcasting thanks to the supremely high quality of the images it takes.

Motion detection for reliable home monitoring With the special Motion Detection feature you can record anything that happens in your home while you're out. Show all features Show less features. Show all product features Show fewer product features. What's in the box? Other items in the box Quick install guide User Manual.

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Philips SPCNC is not recognized · Issue # · opencv/opencv · GitHub

The modest web camera or webcam quickly gained interest among amateur astronomers. It has two characteristics that are very much useful in astrophotography: 1 its lens can be removed much like the lens of a DSLR, making it possible to easily connect the webcam with any telescope and 2 it can record a huge number of still frames even in a short span of time minutes , a feature particularly useful in a post-processing technique called registering and stacking.

In this article, I intend to describe how to image planets using a web camera as the main imaging device and then provide a brief overview of the post-processing technique. Any web camera may be used for astrophotography, some cameras however, perform better than others. Images may be captured using 2 different imaging techniques: 1 prime focus method and 2 eyepiece projection method.

Details about each method and the accessories needed are described below. It requires a web camera with the lens removed , a camera-to-telescope adapter, and a telescope. In planetary imaging, it is important that the telescope has enough magnification to be able to capture considerable amount of detail.

I recommend imaging at a focal length not less than mm. If your telescope is a bit too short, Barlow lenses may be inserted along the optical path to achieve longer focal lengths. Limit the number of Barlows to at most 2 to avoid image degradation, and as a general rule, always minimize the number of Barlows used — use one 4X Barlow lens instead of using two 2X Barlows stacked together.

This is a more complicated technique as it requires more adapters, but it tends to produce high-quality images. It requires a web camera with the lens removed , a camera-to-telescope adapter, an eyepiece projection adapter, an eyepiece, and a telescope. It is advised, however, that you should learn prime focus imaging first before attempting eyepiece projection method. Using a higher-power eyepiece produces a larger image higher magnification. Also, increasing the separation between the eyepiece and the sensor further increases the magnification.

If higher magnification is desired, one may simply replace the eyepiece with a higher-power one, or increase the separation instead by using a tube extender.

In planetary imaging, our goal is to record minute videos of the planet we wish to image and then use a software to extract still image frames from this video remember videos are just still images displayed in sequence , scroll through the frames and look for the best-looking image sharp, clear, with lots of details , and then use the software to look for other images that are similar in quality.

These frames will be aligned automatically and then combined to form one single image. Comparing all other frames one at a time with the best-looking image is called registering , while the process of putting all those similar frames on top of the other, aligning them automatically, and then combining all of them to form one single image is called stacking.

There are several freeware that can perform registering and stacking, one of which is called RegiStax. By registering and stacking images, sharp details are preserved, noise is greatly reduced, and the resulting image looks clean and smooth. The software may be downloaded here. I strongly suggest that you try to learn how to post-process recorded clips, I guarantee you will be amazed with the results!

For more images of planets taken by a web camera, click here. I hope this article provides ample information to help you get started in planetary imaging! Should you have any questions, feel free to leave a comment. Clear skies! Kuya Eteny, paano kapag puro still images lang ang meron lang ako? Okay pa rin bang gamitin ang Registax? I have about 7 images of the Milky Way galaxy pero iba-iba ang anggulo.

Thanks and will appreciate your reply for this. There is an option to process still images jpeg, etc. Good luck! Do you know if the adaptors are interchangeable i. Just be extra careful in screwing in the adapter. Clear skies to you too!

I have tried using the Prime Focus method but the images I get are huge. One thing I tried with a different webcam was to keep the lens on it and keep the lens on the telescope also. Why would this not be favored by anyone? I tried to do the same with an HD webcam and I am having a very hard time lining it up just right with lenses and all in place. Any tips? Thx — Sergio.

The method you are describing is called afocal imaging, wherein you use webcam with its lens, mounted on a telescope with an eyepiece. In any type of imaging, we try to minimize the number of optical elements between the object e. The simpler the setup is, the better.

And even if you have superb optics, because of so many optical elements, less light will reach the sensor. There are pros and cons, and you will have to try out each one and decide which ones will work best for you.

Thank you very much for taking the time to reply to me. What you say makes sense. I will experiment some more. In other words I probably need to put the webcam with no lens several inches away from the end of the eyepiece, correct? In eyepiece projection, what I usually do is to center and focus the target first by looking directly through the eyepiece. Once centered and focused, I then mount the web camera with its lens removed immediately on top of the eyepiece. A fuzzy object then shows up in my monitor.

Sharp focus is achieved by simply adjusting the focuser. I recommend doing a trial imaging session with the moon first before attempting to image a planet. Do you have a link to where I can buy a eyepiece projection adapter — preferably on amazon uk. Ice seen lots of dslr projectors so afraid of buying the wrong one. Those are definitely the type of adapter you are looking for! Remember that what they are selling are simply the eyepiece projection adapter. You still need to purchase a webcam to telescope adapter for use with webcams or a T-ring plus T-adapter setup, if to be used with a DSLR.

I use a tasco telescope with Microsoft webcam and works good but seeking for a bigger telescope. For the last two months here in South Ontario at night cloudy all night, did not get any clear sky at all.

Hoping it will be in August if not only September and October should be good for watching at night. No luck for me so far.

I have a standard 1. With an eyepiece inserted there is no room to mount a webcam…. It allows an eyepiece to connect to a focuser while and at the same time, allows a webcam to be attached to the eyepiece. Note that it also allows you to change the distance separation between the eyepiece and the web camera, which is very important in adjusting the size of the projected image.

A larger distance or separation will yield a larger image. I have not used that particular Barlow, thus, I am unable to provide a concrete feedback. For more info on Barlows, click here. I could not take picture this time but my two inches barlow ane eyepiece were just great easy view of the deep sky. How can i use a moon filter in conjunction with the philips webcam? However, I have neglected to mention anything about the telescope. When photographing bright […]. This is a great article!

I have been interested in webcam astrophotography for some time but most articles I read assume you have a refractor. I tried a couple webcams but it never really produced anything but frustration and disappointment. I did read somewhere to test the rig in the daytime, targeting a distant object to make sure webcam is aligned with eyepieces too. I try to attached a webcam along with the remove lance of the webcam with a adapter. I also attached cellphone along with OTG cabal and have a app also.

Every thing are done but I can view any image on the display of my cellphone. Let me tell how I do the same? Hope your reply. You are commenting using your WordPress. You are commenting using your Google account.

You are commenting using your Twitter account. You are commenting using your Facebook account. Notify me of new comments via email. Notify me of new posts via email. Search for: Close. Photo of Saturn taken on May 8, Processed using AutoStakkert and Registax.

To view the raw unprocessed images as captured by the web camera, click here. Webcam imaging through prime focus method In planetary imaging, it is important that the telescope has enough magnification to be able to capture considerable amount of detail.

Webcam imaging through eyepiece projection method Using a higher-power eyepiece produces a larger image higher magnification. The metal tube may serve as an extender.